Fall Clothing For Women: And Ribbed Knitwear Was Modeled After Armor With Tiered Pleats And Contrasting Color Tips
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Whenever begging the question of whether the Phantom of the Opera would’ve been making a haunting appearance on the catwalk, or in the dark and creepy corners guests had to wander into to find their seats, stella McCartney swapped her upstairs Opera Garnier space for the basement on Monday morning. For the redish carpet, tulle gowns were dripping with embroidery like medieval flora and fauna, including one stunning Tree of Life gown to bring things full circle back to the ultimate symbol of hope in hopeless times. Tailoring was beautifully sensual, not unlike how it was treated in McCartney’s collection. Blazers and tuxedo jackets were draped like blankets around the body, nipped at the waist with cascading side panels, and worn over ‘widelegged’ trousers and sneakers for a modern look.
That intimate gesture translated into an array of stunningcraftsy looks, including elongated dresses decorated with colorful needlework, ‘cross stitch’ and embroidery, some trailing silk threads.
Ribbed knitwear was modeled after armor with tiered pleats and contrasting color tips.
Then the pastoral contrasted nicely with urban touches, including gold and silver biker hardware on immensely wearable silk midi skirts for daytime, worn with studded Chelsea boots. That meant a slew of British tweed and houndstooth check cut into interesting pieces, including drapey coats, saucy mini dresses and suit jackets with decorative ‘multi lapels’, worn over loose trousers. And therefore the collection was similarly bold, depending on traditional equestrian menswear tailoring bent to a woman’s body and a woman’s way. Consequently, there were even a couple of nods to the ultimate power female, Queen Elizabeth I, namely a quilted dark green coat worn with a silk scarf kerchief that looked straight out of Balmoral. For example, a modern incarnation of the bullet bra perked up ps and dresses with overstitched cups.
Lace frocks worn over pants, and with funky wool bolero jackets were a cool new way of dressing up, anchored with chunky sneakers or square ed shoe booties.
This was a collection chock full of mass appeal.
Wearable but special pieces ran the gamut from a floral embroidered parachute nylon jacket and skirt with groovy, punkinspired zippered panels to a draw cord tweed skirt to a navy brass button blazer/nylon bomber jacket hybrid. Remixed fair isle sweaters and plaid flannel dresses were also cool. At Alexander McQueen, Sarah Burton went back to the land with a collection inspired by the ancient traditions of Cornwall, including the spiritual Cloutie trees that visitors adorn with ribbons and scraps of cloth.
